Need Control Box advice on my 2007 ShopBot PRS conversion

[djbeede]

2007 Shopbot PRS Centroid upgrade progress report

I had to take a break from my ShopBot to Centroid conversion in March but I’m back at it.
Huge thanks to SWORD, Gary Campbell, CNCKeith, and Marty for getting me this far!

I’ve lost a bit of momentum (and memory, glad I have schematics!)
Hoping to get some advice re my Control Box so I don’t leave out anything important since I’d prefer to do this part once.

I’ve components wired on a table with a dust shield over it and have done a Vcarve text file test and surfaced the table. Great to see it moving again!

A bit of a jumble

I’ve collected the following pieces of the puzzle.

Centroid 4 axis Acorn DIY CNC motion controller kit
8 output relay board with flat cable
Meanwell RD-35B power supply
(plus license and CNC12 software)

Db25 Breakout Board

Recommended Computer:
Dell Optiplex 7050 Micro Desktop, Intel i7, 16GB RAM, 256GB SSD, WiFi, Windows 10 Pro (Renewed)

Monitor/ ViewSonic TD2210 22 Inch 1080p Single Point Resistive Touch Screen
Logitech K400 Plus wireless keyboard (Thanks Marty for both!)

Huanyang VFD,single to 3 Phase,Variable Frequency Drive,2.2kW 3HP 220V input AC 10A

Spindle/ HY HUANYANG Water Cooled CNC Spindle Motor 220V 2.2KW 24000RPM 400hz Φ80mm ER20

Pump, tubing, dual fan radiator to cool spindle. I only have the coolant pump hooked up, sans radiator and fans, but after 45 min of surfacing the temperature of the spindle was only 89 degrees.

is 89degrees after 45 min cool enough

Wondering if I need the radiator?

Five Gecko 202 drivers (re-used from ShopBot) + resistors

These + original motors working fine for me

2 Geckos are ganged for X axis (so 4 motors use 3 axis, want to use my 4th axis for rotary someday)

Power Supply for Geckos (from Shopbot) with internal fan (not sure how to mount the unit?)

This doesn't show the case very well?

Limit switches & Emergency Stop

Touch Probe & tool touch off for my RapidChange ATC

Z zero plate – re-used from ShopBot

RapidChange ATC 8 pocket magazine + dust cover

Hope this ATC works! It brought me to Centroid.

I’ve temp wired all components together (except ATC)

Got it calibrated and squared.
Did a test text Vcarve and surfaced my 4’x8’ table.

Vevor Control Box 20”x20”x6”

Destination?

Perforated stand off plate, self taping screws,
Double Sided Thermal Tape, 1"
Terminal blocks, wire channels
Ferrule Crimper Tool Kit with Terminal Connector Sleeves
Misc. Shrink tubing
Brady M210 label maker

Still need ventilation fan. One exhausting at top and vents at bottom? Or one blowing in at bottom too?
Size? CFM? Voltage?

Now I need to rewire all components into the control box.
I’ve done a rough cad drawing of a possible layout. Trying to keep heat generators high and high voltage away from low voltage.

One option

Intend to mount the 220v VFD on wall beside the Control Box.

Not obvious how to mount the Gecko drives’ power supply? It has no flange and would not be very doable to screw into it from the back. Small L brackets maybe?

Open to all input!

Getting excited, eager to do the work!
Thanks for your help. - David

Mythological empty horizontal surface!

[Gary Campbell]

You can use a piece of 1/8" aluminum an inch wider than the power supply to mount it. Drill countersink holes from the back for the ps screws and have 4 on the exterior to mount to the backplane

[ShawnM]

Is the perforated backplane plastic or metal? It must be metal and grounded.

Gary's idea for the PS is what I do if I need mounting tabs on anything that doesn't have them.

As for ventilation of the control box, you want a fan down low pushing/sucking air THROUGH A FILTER into the enclosure to pressurize it with vents at the top. It's bad practice to place a fan at the top pulling air into the enclosure from vents or a second fan.

If you follow good wire practice and use shielded cable where it's needed/required for cnc control panels you can put the VFD in the same enclosure to protect it. Use shielded wire for all step/direction signals, analog signal to VFD, VFD output power to spindle, etc. I know nothing about those Gecko drives but they may require other wires to be shielded also. This might be in the Gecko manual.

[djbeede]

You can use a piece of 1/8" aluminum an inch wider than the power supply to mount it. Drill countersink holes from the back for the ps screws and have 4 on the exterior to mount to the backplane

Thanks for that Gary. I also realized I have DIN rail and metal clips meant to attach to components not made for DIN rail. Not positive there's room for the height of the rail itself, so your 1/8" plate idea should work.
The 48v PS I'm working to mount, is from my ShopBot control box. It has a fan built in and it was mounted so it blew out of the control box, in addition to another vent fan at the top blowing out. Is box ventilation controversial? ShawnM recommend blowing air in from the bottom through a filter and venting at the top. That sounds like it would work too, but not sure how it combines with a PS with it's own fan?
Thanks again for your input.
David

[Gary Campbell]

David...
SB has a bad habit of either using no fans or installing one blowing out, which negatively pressurizes the control box. The accepted general practice is to force air into the enclosure to positively pressurize the enclosure. This keeps dust from being sucked into the box.

I mount my heat generating components near the top so that the heat doesn't affect other components. Whether they have a fan or not is usually irrelevant.

[yeeter]

Since you have basic functionality, I might stop right there and label all the wires. My estop is on the front of the machine - I would recommend mounting it within reach to where ever you typically stand when starting a new job.

[ShawnM]

And definitely rewire the machine so the e-stop is not a power switch. That's wrong in so many ways and they were just lazy when they wired it up. As suggested, start labeling everything you can as it'll save to time later. Plan your component layout so there's room around the heat generating parts and mount them up high in the cabinet as Gary stated.

[djbeede]

ShawnM -
Do you have any favorite air filtering material you use with the bottom mounted intake fan?
Also, I do have 3 actual E-Stops I intend to wire in series (NC) at the most used locations around my machine.

[ShawnM]

ShawnM -
Do you have any favorite air filtering material you use with the bottom mounted intake fan?
Also, I do have 3 actual E-Stops I intend to wire in series (NC) at the most used locations around my machine.

I use grills with built in filters and some have a fairly dense foam in them and others have a polyester filter. Both washable and reusable. Expect to lose about 10-20 CFM from the fan with a good filter. I'd also recommend a good strong fan, no cheap 12v or 24 volts fans. I only use 110v or 220v volt fans that are all metal. 220v mostly.

Do a Google search for "nema enclosure fans and filters" and you'll see tons of them. I don't know your budget. You can also check Amazon if you like. I'm certain you'll find some on there, they offer everything.

You can even set a "filter clean" alert in Acorn for the number of days between cleaning.

As for your e-stops, you can have as many as you like, just be sure to wire them properly so they are NOT a power switch.

[djbeede]

Code: Select all

This is my latest approximation of layout. Fan blowing IN lower left corner. 48V PS upper right, has a built in intermittent thermostatic fan blowing out of the top of it’s case. Not sure how much top vent area to cut out of the control box to provide enough air flow?

I’m mounting the Geckos on aluminum finned heat sinks. I was going to mount them vertically but flat gives better access to terminals and there is still room.

Almost done labeling wires but the setup is still connected so I’m using paper templates to mock it up. (Dimensions from Centroid) I have duplicate Geckos and 48v PS.

Planning to put rubber grommet wire holes in lower access door for power, motor cables, VFD cable etc.)

110v is provided to power supplies, spindle cooling pump, and fan via a fused external plug strip.
VFD is mounted and fused outside of control box, so will be manually powered up.

As for wiring, I have a lot of both 16awg and 18awg shielded 4 wire. Is it a problem to oversize wiring?

Any opinions on DIN Rail terminal bocks vs Lever wire connectors?

Thanks in advance to my Centroid gurus here on the forum!